Door Instructions - For 2000 through 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Technology Instructions NOTICE These instructions are offered 'As Is' and at your own risk. AtTheTipWebs.com, any of our staff members, affiliates, etc. Are not responsible for any problems that may occur as a result of the use of these instructions, tips, procedures, etc., nor do we offer any support of any kind by phone, visit, or by e-mail, etc. By using these instructions, tips, procedures, etc., you accept all responsibility and liability for the results that occur.
- Jeep Grand Cherokee Wiring Diagram
- 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Seat Replacement
- 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Door Module
Tell a friend about this site: Door Instructions - For 2000 through 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee These instructions are designed to guide you through the step by step process of replacing or repairing the window motor/track assembly. These instructions will also show you how to remove the following items:. Door Panel. Door Speaker.
Front Window. Door Window & Lock Controls As the story goes, we (my family) pulled into a parking lot, got out of the truck, closed the door, and watched the passenger side window slowly go down all by itself. Got back in the truck and tried to roll it back up, no movement at all.
We could hear the motor doing something but still no action. So we drove home with the window down, in 100 degree heat (ouch). So I tore into it the next morning to learn that the top cable was off the track. It was also un-hooked from the track mechanism.
So, I hooked it all back up just to have it break again within 5 minutes. Took everything back apart and learned that the top cable end was pulling through the plastic track mechanism. Called the local Jeep parts department and they said you have to purchase the entire window assembly for $275. Called NAPA and they said they have a replacement for $112 and the salvage yard wanted $80.
Would rather pay $112 for a new one than pay $80 for a used one. Being a person that always tries to fix the broke one (Free is always better than $112), I took some Quick Steel and applied it to the track mechanism with the cables in place. Allow 1 hour to do the entire job.
I try to detail all of the instructions I do to make them so a 10 year old could follow them. Because of the tension in the cable (if a repair of the assembly is attempted) I would not ask anyone younger than 14 to do it. If you find these instructions useful, please take a few minutes and express your appreciation by leaving me a TIP/DONATION in my PayPal account (any amount would be appreciated, $10 would be great). Tools Needed:. Standard Screw Driver, long. Cross Tip Screw Driver, #2. Screw Driver Kit W/ Torque Bits, T-15 & T-20.
1/4' Ratchet. 10mm Socket.
8mm Socket. Needle Nose Pliers Stuff For Cleaning. Glass cleaner (if you have tint on the glass, use something to safe for tint). Paper towels Instructions: Please read the ENTIRE step before you perform it. Open the door and remove the top screw cover and remove the screw (cross tip). Remove the screw at the door handle (cross tip) and the torque screw behind the door lever (T-15). Pull on the bottom of the door pocket to release the clips at the bottom of the door, then work around the rest of the door until all the clips are free.
NOTE: Hold the door panel in place to disconnect the attached wires and arms. While holding the door panel in place, pull the top of it away from the door and put your hand in the area to release the 2 wired connections and the 2 latch levers. Once the connections are free, set the door panel aside. Remove the 4 screws that hold the speaker in place, disconnect the speaker and set it aside. Take note how the wires and arms go through the door plastic and remove the plastic that insulates the door. Remove the inner window seal.
It simply lifts off. Look into the door panel and remove the 2 clips that secure the window to the track guide. I used the needle nose pliers for this. Once you have the clips out, work the studs out of the guide and lift the window from the door (up and out). If the clips are out of reach for some reason, you can slide the window up from the bottom. If you need to use the switches for some reason, you can remove it from the door panel with the T-20 driver. NOTE: When you go to put the window back in, align the window studs on top of the guide plastic pieces and push down on the window a little, they will pop in very easy.
Once the window is out, you can look down the window slot and see the track, cable guide, etc. The top cable was loose on mine. Un-clip the window motor wire. The red tab slides up to un-lock the connector, then press the release on the end to un-plug it. Once un-plugged, push it into the door.
You are now ready to remove the door motor and track assembly. To do this, loosen the 3 screws on the motor (8 mm, yellow), loosen 2 of the track bolts (10 mm, yellow) and remove the 2 remaining track bolts (10 mm, red). Work the motor / track assembly out of the lower forward hole in the door. You are now ready to install the new assembly, just reverse the steps above. If you want to try to fix the assembly you have, continue. Once the track assembly is out, lay it on the ground and remove the lower cable guide, it keeps the window guide on the track.
Using a screw driver, press the tab and slide it out. Remove the window guide, turn it so that you can connect the cable in the guide. (I used a product called Quick Steel.
It comes in a tube and is like a clay substance that you kneed together. It sets in 5 minutes and cures in 1 hour. After I put it on my cable connection I let it sit for about 75 minutes before I re-attached the guide and secured the cables). Be careful not to get the cable twisted. Install the window guide on the track, align the cable guides and secure the cables. You should now be ready to put everything back together.
NOTE: Put everything back together in the reverse order. After you are done you will need to clean the window, it will be greasy. Please leave a donation, any amount appreciated. See the bottom of this page.
These instructions were modified on. I hope these instructions were helpful to you. Please take a minute and leave me a donation, yes I do need it.
A few weeks ago my power windows gave out and after nearly ripping out all of the power window wires I decided to take my 95 grand cherokee to the dealer. Turns out it was a problem with a series of wires that were pinched from the door opening and closing. The total, $460 to find and fix.
I called Chrysler and told them about the problem recommending that they do some kind of recall for it since the fix was purely a factory problem due to their use of brittle wiring. I know there are quite a few other jeep enthusiasts out there who have had the same problem and others who WILL have it later. Lets let Chrysler know what's up, the number to contact them is 800 992 1997. I love my jeep but I don't think anyone should pay as much as I have or come so close to insanity as myself to have this fixed. The part number is CKH1518. And lies within the drivers side wiring boot. If we make enough noise maybe we can get some kind of recall rolling.
It's an easy fix, but only if you know that it's the wiring harness in the door jamb. Otherwise it could be in quite a few other areas. If it is the door jamb wiring harness then check for a split wire and fix it, solder, wire crimping, whatever. Normally it's the black ground wire that's the main problem, especially if it's all four windows that are having problems Thank You, Thank you, Thank you!!! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my electric windows wouldn't work. Once I checked the wiring harness in the door, not only was the black wire broke, but also a dark pink one, and 2 others were almost there.
The insulation on both was broke thru, and the wires were starting to break. 4-butt connectors later and it's good as new. I wish I would have found this site before I spent $120.00 on a new window switch for my drivers door. LOL Thanks again, Hydes21.
The contact owns a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The contact stated that the wiring harness is located on the driver's side door, but the harness is too small to sustain all the wires. When the door is opened, the wires come out of the harness and break, which causes the locks and interior lighting to fail. The interior lighting remains illuminated. If the contact turns off the interior lighting while driving at night, she is unable to see the instrumental panel. The repair would cost $400.
A report was filed with the manufacturer and they stated that they will not charge her the total cost for the repair. The dealer will replace the wires and harness at the cost of $100.
The failure mileage was 45,000 and current mileage was 55,000. Alpena, MI, USA. I own a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited.I took my car in for the seat heater recall and since then I have terrible problems with the sudden acceleration of the car.(700rpms to 1800) I constantly have to push the brake down and be very conscious of keeping my foot on the brake.
The check engine light then came on with a P0505 code. Air intake sensor. Well a new one was put in and the problem was not resolved. The mechanic could not control the idle even with the diagnostic computer attached to it. It was found that two wires on the wiring harness were shorting out and melting.then after driving approx 1200 miles the idle starts jumping again.the check engine light come on about two days later.then within the same day the idle calms down and the check engine light goes off.
I have paid lots of money to have this repaired.I believe that there is a short somewhere from the seat heater recall since the car did not do this prior to having the dealership fix the seat heater with the recall. I really like my car when the idle is right.I am not comfortable having anyone else drive it due to this issue and do not always feel safe when the acceleration goes wild.please help.this is a major safety issue that needs to be addressed quickly before other people get hurt or killed. Tampa, FL, USA. 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee lost all electrical power inside vehicle on multiple occasions. The consumer was told the problem was a faulty BCM.
However, the same problem recurred one month later. In Oct 2005, the consumer experienced unwanted acceleration while he was pulling into the garage and hit another vehicle. The consumer stated the check engine light would occasionally come on and then go of.
Then the rear hatch light would come on, the tire pressure light and the security system stopped working. The dealer then found a broken ground wire in the engine harness. The windows were inoperative. Manchester, CT, USA. 2004 Grand Cherokee electrical units stopped working.
While driving on a hot day the vehicle electrical system shut down. The vehicle was taken to a dealer who determined that he problem was with the BCM. The BCM was replaced.
A week later, on another hot day, the electrical system shut down again but the engine continued to run. As a result the A/C did not work and the power windows could not be rolled down. The vehicle accelerated suddenly while pulling into a garage striking another vehicle. After repeated attempts to ge the vehicle fixed the dealer found a broken ground wire in the engine wiring harness. After nine months the problems have not recurred. The consumer believes the broken ground wire was the cause of the electrical shut down and sudden acceleration.
Manchester, CT, USA. I lease a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with heated leather seats. Earlier this year the driver side heater went out then I noticed that just the lower back heater came on. One day in February after driving for about an hour and 1/2 I got home and tried to take off my sweatshirt but could not as it was melted to my cell phone case. At first I did not know what had happened then upon later investigation I noticed a burn whole in my car seat that ran up what was apparently the heater wire. I am a paraplegic and if it was not for the cell phone case I could have been burned.
My concern is for others like me and due to the severity of the heat which could melt a sweat shirt and a phone case that it potentially could ignite clothing. Middleville, MI, USA. We purchased a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee the end of June 2004.
Jeep Grand Cherokee Wiring Diagram
The car had approximately 30-40 miles at purchase. Three days after purchase the car cut off on my husband and was difficult to start. The dealership told us they could not look at the car because the check engine light did not come on. While on vacation 1 1/2 weeks after purchase our car shut off while traveling 60 mph on a highway. The car would not start and was towed to a Jeep dealership in Maryland. That dealership replaced the computer in the car. No incidents occurred for 1 1/2 weeks.
Then upon our return to South Carolina the RPM of our car would suddenly drop to 500 while idling at traffic lights or at a stop. The RPM's would also suddenly drop to 0 and the car would cut off while idling. From the middle of July until the end of August the car was looked at approximately 6 times. The skim module and wiring harness were both replaced in the car. After the wiring harness was replaced the car ceased to have problems for 3000 miles.
Then on December 4th the car cut off while waiting at a traffic light. The RPM's have now started to once again drop down to below 500 and occasionally they go up and down when the car is not even moving. A co-Pilot system was installed to record any errors in the car and no codes or misfires were captured from the car. The dealership has been unable to fix the car and Chrysler informed us that they were not willing to replace our car even though they are unable to fix the problem.
Goose Creek, SC, USA. My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee has a couple power outlets; they look almost like cigarette lighter receptacles. The outlets are marked '20A' indicating a 20 amp current capability. The Jeep book also indicates these power outlets are able to carry 20 amps, and the Jeep shop manual calls these 20 amp circuits. When I disassembled some trim to install a 2-meter ham radio, I saw 2 very small wires connected to the rear power outlet. The Jeep shop manual says these are 16 gauge wires. Here is the problem: 16 gauge wires will not come near the ability to handle 20 amps of current.
In fact, 16 gauge wire current capacity in a cable bundle is around the 5 or 6 amp area. My ham radio draws 8 amps when transmitting, and when plugged in the Jeep power outlet, the voltage drop was three volts. What this means is that the wires can severely overheat and become a fire hazard if the consumer believes the advertised 20 amp capability. I have no idea how Chrysler/Jeep gets away with this. There is a 20 amp fuse in this circuit, so anyone using an inverter or other accessory that actually draws 20 amps is going to seriously overheat or melt the wiring before the fuse blows. Laurel, MD, USA.
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It seems no one has solved this puzzle yet, but I'll give it a shot of my own. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. '97 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 135,000 miles Various warning lights Power comes on at night Instrument cluster & gages haywire Stalling Dead battery overnight Feedback in speakers Repeatedly blown 20A fuse on engine fuse block Turns over, but now won't catch Replaced: Ignition switch & ignition cylinder block, cam sensor, throttle position sensor. Cost: $750 Tried: new battery, unplugging PCM computer, checked all fuses. And the alternator checked out all right.
Any ideas?the dealer in stumped. (replacing the PCM computer seems to only have a 50% success rate). I would check to see if any 'recalls' have been made on that model to include 1yr.
Before/after your yr. With all the problems, it can include the wire harness and the panel/gauges themselves as they are now so electronic. If you can, remove the gauge panel and inspect it, its not unknown to have flaked flat wires peel away or burnt. To include the electronics, etc., thus you may want to know a junk yard to salvage such parts rather buy new, as they cost.
On top of all this, the parts cost, it maybe just so dang hard to remove/service buried parts like the gauge panel so proceed at own risk. Couldn't beleive it worked!
After checking all possible problems and suggestions from friends, I got lucky. Windows not working, gauges not working, ac not working,intreior lights not working on door opening on entry, flasher lights not working from wireless remote, overhead console not working, getting a code auto zone reading from his handheld remote dig checker,(1686) and not knowing what it was refering to. He said i would have to call a dealer and get an answer. They didn't know either! I was giving up!
Until I ran across you site and remember a response about his 1997 jeep cherokee stating he diconnected his battery for 10 minutes and it fixed his problem. Well I disconnected my negitive for 20 minutes, then reconnected and started up. EVERYTHING WAS WORKING AGAIN!!!!!! Thanks whomever you are for that answer. Simple and sweet and my headache is gone now and i still have a little money in the bank!
Similar thing happened to me this morning.tried to unlock the driver's side door using the remote entry key fob. Nothing happened.so unlocked the door using the key. Once inside, the interior door unlock switch didn't work.nor did the window switches. Read in the blogs about possible resolutions. Went with the simplist first. Disconnected the negative battery cable for 30 seconds and then reconnected.
All problems fixed. At least in this case, it appears that the electrical problems were related to the PCI Bus. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery seemed to act like rebooting a home computer.cleared the problems and now good to go. If anyone is having similar problems, I suggest trying this super simple fix first before doing complicated testing or parts replacements. In my 2002 GC V-8, identical symptoms lead to broken ground wire in door harness between the door and the body. Problems were intermittent for a year, then failed completely, leading me to dig into it.
Symptoms all pointed to something common with all control functions on the drivers door. Broken wire was obvious. Grabbed the rubber protective sleeve and work it loose at the door - it fits over a plate in the connector and can just be lifted with a blunt tool and pulled back. Fix was simple - strip back both sides of broken wire, made a jumper out of three inches of identical wire, crimped a butt connector on both ends - made a loop in the jumper for flexibility, two crimps later I was back in business. Wish I'd done it a year ago. Driving to go shopping, my 'driver door open' alert came on along with the interior light.
Of course.opened and closed the driver door while in transit, the light went off.but the alert and light came back on a few minutes later! Pulled into the shopping parking lot, I opened and closed the driver door a few times.
Discovered the problem was intermittent. Diagnosis, loose or broken wire at the driver door. When I got home i looked for the trouble in the likeliest place.the rubber flex boot between the driver door and the car body. Pulled back the flex boot with a little effort and saw a previous repair connection on the heavy bue wire!
Someone had this problem before! (previous owner) pulled on this wire and out it came.
Caught the other end hanging in mid air. I 'Soldered' these wires back! The small wire nuts that were holding it together were loose. Turned on the jeep and tried the window buttons.Nothing! Looked further into the flex boot.the heavy Orange/White wire was severed! Soldered a wire to both ends and taped everything up.
Boom.turned on the car and checked the window buttons.Success!!! So some looking into the flex boot on the driver door and some wire and solder and tape and I'm back in business. I hope that my experience with this helps someone else having this kind of trouble. Hi, I've just had the same problem with my GC Limited 2000 model, I took the door trim panel off, then checked wiring back to harness that passes through the door to body to fuse box, I checked all of the fuses they were fine. I then took the black rubber boot off the door where the multi plug is, I noticed a black wire that had broken, I then tried to find this on the car interior side but no luck, I then decided to take it to a local auto electrician, I left the panel off then showed him what I had found, he said leave it with him, 3 hours later he told me he had sorted it, he told me that the wiring is very tight and that Jeep/Chrysler were always sparse in giving extra wiring that's why this happens. He charged me £45 sterling, so I was happy to pay this, and this was on Tuesday of this week.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Seat Replacement
I thought this was a result as I was looking to be paying mega bucks for this. Just as a matter of course, I took the bulb out of the door panel that lights up when you open the door, please bear in mind my vehicle is RHD as I live in the U.K. So I took the bulb out of the Passenger side LHS to you, then put it in the Drivers side RHD no power, the bulb I took out of the Drivers side RHD, put it in the Passenger side LHS it worked, so there was no power to the Drivers side RHD. Hope this helps.
I had similar systems to those described here in my 1999 Grand Cherokee. It turns out that there was a bad connection at the negative battery terminal. After cleaning both the positive and negative terminals and cable ends, everything worked perfectly! My guess is that the success others are seeings after disconnecting the battery may have as much to do with re-establishing a good connection as some possible reset of the system.
Lesson learned (like every automotive manual says) - always check the battery first. When in doubt, put a new battery in.
I had a similar problem after trying to jump start my 2002 Jeep GC. The windows stopped working, the temperature gauge showed -, the interior lights did not come on, the horn did not sound when the remote was pressed to lock the car. I went to Advantage Auto Parts to determine the fuses for the windows and they were all good. I started searching the internet and found this forum using body control module, which was not the problem. After reading several post, which had the same problems as mine, I decided to try disconnecting my battery to re-boot the on-board computers.
I disconnected my battery, cleaned the terminals, which had a little corrosion, reconnected the battery and everything started working again, the windows, lights, horn working when using remote, the check engine light does not stay on. Who would have thought that just re-booting the computers would solve the problem. And I have been involved with computers for over 20 years. I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.0 that runs fine until you try to Accelerate and it feels like it's running on 4or 5 cylinders.
Somtimes just just driving normal at a steady speed it will start shaking. Now here is the weird stuff, if you shut off the ignition and turn it back on if will run fine. Haved change the pcm/ecu by the Brains at the Jeep dealership A mistake!!! Also the head lights will come, blink the go off with nobody in the jeep. The car will go on the highway for hours and be fine. Also on more weird thing, sometime if your parked and put it in drive and hold the brake it will shake,IF YOU PUT IT IN REVERSE IT WILL BE FINE.
I have read with great discouragement, the electrical problems GC jeep owners are having with electrical problems. They range from the 1998 to some 2007 year models. Never had a problem and after 10 years and 130,000 miles, this happens.
Since Oct of 2009, I have spent $2000 and the jeep has been in and out of the dealership. They have tried and ARE still trying to resolve the situation. I went out and got the following from another expert. I hope it helps someone.
My dealership is trying the steps and when or if it's resolved, will update this posting. Good luck, jeep owners. Hope you write Chrysler about this fiasco, I certainly did, although I don't think they really care.
Jeep is mud with me as is Chrysler. My info might have been too long. I'll try this again, these are solutions from an 'expert' with Jeep. How to Fix the Famous Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problem PCI Bus Diagnostics for 1999-2004 (WJ) Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee PCI Bus Diagnostics for 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee The PCI Bus system is a one-wire communication system. It allows the various modules (computers) on the vehicle to communicate with each other and share information. This information sharing reduces wiring complexity. The PCI Bus wire is either yellow with a violet tracer, or white with a violet tracer, depending on year and model.
The easiest place to access this wire is at the data link connector, which is the connector that the scan tool plugs into for diagnosis. On LHD North American Jeeps, the data link connector is located under the driver side of the dash, adjacent to the fuse block. It is easily visible without removing any panels. The PCI Bus wire is in pin #2 of the data link connector.
Normally I remove the connector from it's bracket and pull it down for better access. This allows me to backprobe the connector with my voltmeter. You do not want to damage the portion of the terminals which make contact with the scan tool connector.
Here are the symptoms you are probably experiencing with a PCI Bus issue: The A/C blows normal volume but the air is not cold, because the compressor will not engage, even with the 'snowflake' or 'A/C' button pressed. The instrument cluster backlighting is ON at all times (when the key is on), even with the headlamps OFF.
Power windows are inoperative. The overhead console displays 'lines' instead of information.
The gauges are not reading correctly. These symptoms may come and go. Often PCI bus problems are intermittent. The PCI Bus system operates on a 0 to 7.5 volt square wave. If you were to connect an oscilloscope to pin 2 of the data link connector, on a system with no problems, the oscilloscope would display a nice square wave.
Most people do not have a $2000 scope, so I have devised an easier method. You will need a digital voltmeter to continue. Set the meter to 'DC Volts' Connect the red lead of the meter to pin 2 of the data link connector Connect the black lead of the meter to ground. Any bare metal surface under the dash will work.
Turn the key to 'ON'. Or, start the engine. Sometimes the PCI Bus problem is easier to duplicate with the engine running. Observe the volt reading on the meter. If the volt reading is zero, or very close to zero, it is possible that the PCI bus is OPEN, or SHORTED TO GROUND. A different test will be required, which is detailed later in this article.
If the volt reading is close to 12 volts, or battery voltage, the PCI Bus is shorted to voltage, and diagnosis should be fairly easy. If the volt reading is varying between 0.5 and 2.5 volts, the fault is not present at this time. Verify this by inspecting the operation of the windows and other symptoms. Normally what I see on problem vehicles is a reading of 4 to 6 volts.
This indicates that a module (one of the vehicle computers) is pulling the bus voltage too high, causing interference and a loss of communication between modules, which leads to the symptoms you are experiencing. If the PCI Bus voltage reading is consistently above 2.5 volts, we need to determine which module is causing the problem. There is no quick way to do this.
Each module on the bus must be unplugged until the voltage returns to the 0.5 to 2.5 and fluctuating range. Thanks very much for your info. I thought the dreaded electricla issue on my 2000 GC was too much for me having all the classic symptoms so I just took it to the dealer and was charged $400 to be told the instrument cluster had a short and it would be another $1000 to replace. Decided I'd try an ebay cluster for $90 which changed nothing, so I then knew the dealer was attempting to start with the most expensive part and work down and it would cost me $1,000's in the end.
I started out unplugging and replugging the modules on your list from easiest to hardest (ECM, radio, amplifier, inst. Panel, driver window.
When I got to the pass. Window and pulled the plug everything instantly returned to normal (instrument cluster went normal, a/c worked, readings on overhead display went normal, etc) ordered the $30 window module from ebay and all has been well for most of a month and 650 miles. THANKS VERY MUCH FOR YOUR INFO. I am having an issue with the keyless remote not working, but that's nothing over the anxiety of driving with that electrical issue. I have an 03 GC.
It has had most of the same issues and more. The info you gave allowed me to find which 'modules' were faulty and I then replaced them. Not to my surprize, the issues came back a few days later. So I am not the best with typing or writing in general, but I have some VERY important things that all GC owners should be aware of. To start this thred correctly, The symptoms I have endured are gauges going hay wire, engine misfireing(shaking), stalling at a light, or while driving,(can hold gas and break at light and it stays on), after coming to stop (idleing fine) it feels as thou it down shifts, (there is a kick that you feel, that jerks the car just a touch, yet very noticable) then the rpms drop and engine dies.
(unless you are holding the gas and brake of course) So being fourtunite enough to have the tools and shop that i do, my buddies and I were tired of this car beating us and apparently everyone else. We started hunting these issues 3 months ago and have been all over looking for an answer. Took it to the dealer same thing 'nothing wrong with it Sr.'
We started on 3/18/11 we decided to dismantle the vehical. So far it is completly apart and we have found a few things that are definetly causing some of these issues.
First one addresses the modules burning out(shorting out) at the factory they took the three power wires and two ground wires and put them in a sleve then wrapped them with electrical tape. They did this wrong! (Side note: I will have pictures posted as soon as i figure out how to post them) If you take of all that electrical tape and sleve, you will see that by having the wires in the same loom tied together real tight like this, that the isualation on the wires has gone bad due to the temp changes and this causes the wires (including the alterantor wires that are in that loom as well) arc across to each other. This issues was found before the tear down of the car, and once i replaced the wires and ran them in a more respectful manner, I no longer had modules burning out. So all of my electrical issues stopped. But still had the stalling issue. By the way, the battery wires being crossed like they were, burnt up my alternator, starter, pcm,ingnition switch, and a couple modules(trans and ecm).
Some other WJ ownwers and friends of mine have opened the loom on their battery wires and had the same exact issue as well. And yes we did find that most of the WJ's in the junk yard also had this exact same issue. As for the tera down. The WJ is completly apart.
Complete drive tran, iterior, dash, front clip, rear bumber and canister system, gas tank, and wiring harness(all of them) have been removed for inspection. Another thing we have found is that the wiring on the top rear section of the engine is prone to rubbing on the head bolt and another section that is to be afixed to the top of the transmission also prone to rubbing, has rubbed enough to thin out the wire and even thou there does not appear to be any expossed wire, they still arc, or ground out. So those wires have been completly replaced and protected properly. Another issue we found was a celinod in the trans that was defective due to this (proply causeing the down shift issue) will know soon as we are soon to be putting the car back together. In the dash we found a few (again) tightly wrapped wires that we addressed in the same manner. These were right behind the gauge cluster and radio area. We opened the computer (PCM) and found that there may be some issues in there as well.
It appers that there is a few bad soilder connections, as they look to have cracks in them. So the computer is in Florida being 'refurbished'. Some more random things we found were, The neutral safty switch was loose on the side of the transmiision housing, trans mount was also bad, the camshaft possition sensor was bad, crank shaft position sensor checked out ok, the pcm has a service bulletin that was listed for it in June of 2003 listing the need for reprogramming with new software. An issue we have not yet addressed but will soon.
It requires 'techCONNECT Workstation' all in all I can't yet say that this is soulving the issues with the car, but will soon have it back together to see the results of the extensive tear down and inspection. The WJ will back together very soon and I will post any and all cures found. As much as I have read in these forums and tryed to find, I have yet to come across any one simple solution./ Thou I am VERY confident that the battery cables and some other small wireing in the dash having been initially installed incorrectly are a major factor in all these issues. I will keep posting and would love feedback on any of this. Always Persistant, Carsqwerty.
This is an amazing post. I have to hand it to you. Hands down one of the most helpful posts I have seen in a long time. Now fortunately for me the 'reboot (pull power for a few minutes)' method worked for me.
However I had a voltmeter on hand and believe it or not. A friend had an oscilloscope also. I drug all of the equipment out and was ready to go.
After that I pulled the battery cables. While waiting I cleaned the battery terminals and buffed up the headlight lenses with some crest toothpaste since they were getting really foggy.
I said crest toothpaste. Dont bother buying the super duper buffing kit blah blah. Get some crest and some paper towels or a scotch brite pad. Plastic ones not metal scratcher. Little elbow grease and pow. Looks about 200x better. Then I pop the positive cable on and crank it down.
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Driver Door Module
Then the black. And crank it down. I decide just to check on the off chance the reboot fixed the issue and low and behold when I hit the key it was 75 degrees outside. The air worked. The windows worked. And even my check engine light was now off. I have never been so glad to put my tools away and go in the house.
The only thing that could make this post any better would be if someone posted pictures of the common locations/areas of pcm/tcm/bcm etc or pictures of the actual parts.
. 2926 Answers SOURCE: On the driver side, the window/door lock module has the power lead either pulling away from the connection or has broke entirely. Another common cause is the wire harness between the door jam, this is the area that has a rubber boot covering the wires and from opening and closing the door, it creates a broken or loose connection over time. Open the driver side door, grab the rubber boot that the wires run thru, and move it around. Some times this will help create the connection and restore the power. If not, the door panel will need to be removed to inspect the wire connections. Posted on Dec 31, 2010.
I have checked the ground wire in the drivers door?????? What about B+ voltage to the switch? These vehicles wires from the body to the door break inside the rubber boot. Looking at a wiring diagram (so U know what wire is what ) Test with test light,voltmeter etc. Video's on youtube for testing electrical circuits. Plus these systems are controlled by a DDM - driver door module. Free wiring diagrams here Enter vehicle info year, make, model and engine size.
Under system click on body & accessories,then under subsystem click on power door locks or windows. Just to give you an idea of what's involved. Watch this video, jeep,dodge, chrysler same thing. Oct 15, 2017. This problem may be caused by a bad window switch on the driver door.also there is a problem with the wiring coming into that door, the wiring breaks where the door higes are, theres a rubber boot where the hinges are that contain the wiring for that door, also the door lock actuator may be bad or may be related to the window problem, you will need to test for power and ground on the driver door master window switch, remove the switch and make sure the the wiring connection to switch is on good and tight. Good luck, hope this is helpful.
Jan 01, 2011.